Bringing a fragrant Mediterranean shrub into your home

Lavender is often associated with sun‑drenched Mediterranean hillsides, but many indoor herb lovers wonder whether this aromatic shrub can also thrive on a windowsill. As part of our Indoor Herbs & Plants overview series, this article explores whether you can grow lavender indoors and how to give it the environment it needs. I’ll share what I’ve researched from growing lavender both in traditional planters and in modern hydroponic smart gardens so that you can decide if this kitchen staple deserves a spot in your home. If you’re curious about other indoor herbs, check out my earlier posts on What herbs can I grow indoors? for more ideas.

Why lavender is challenging but rewarding

Lavender is a perennial shrub native to the Mediterranean. It loves plenty of sunshine, dry air and a gritty soil mix. According to the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), lavender requires “lots of sun and fast‑draining soil” and will not survive in damp, shady conditions. That alone makes it tricky indoors, where light levels are often lower and humidity higher. However, with the right conditions you can persuade this fragrant herb to adapt. The key is to mimic a Mediterranean environment: bright light, excellent drainage and restrained watering.

Choosing the right variety and seeds

When it comes to indoor lavender, Lavandula officinalis (often called English lavender) is the variety to look for. Known for its compact growth and fragrant blooms, it adapts well to pots and thrives indoors with the right care. If you enjoy growing herbs from seed, you can sow lavender indoors in early spring and transplant seedlings into pots later. The RHS notes that plug plants (small seedlings in modules) should be “potted up and grown on indoors until large enough to plant outside”, which also applies if you plan to keep them indoors permanently.

What lavender needs indoors

Light and placement: The most important factor is light. According to experts quoted in Ideal Home, an indoor lavender plant “must receive at least four hours of direct sunshine every day – and preferably more – and should ideally be placed on a south‑facing windowsill”. I’ve found that a south or south‑west facing window is essential; east‑facing windows can work in summer but are usually too dim in winter. If you don’t have enough natural light, supplement with a small LED grow light. The same Ideal Home article notes that grow lights provide “full‑spectrum light” and allow you to grow lavender anywhere as long as you have a way to suspend the light over the plant.

Temperature and air circulation: Lavender prefers temperatures between 15–24 °C (59–75 °F). Avoid placing pots above radiators or next to heaters, as hot, dry air can stress the plant. Good air circulation is also important; one expert in the Ideal Home article suggests that an open window in summer will help prevent the plant from drying out or sitting in water.

Soil and drainage: In a planter, use a loam‑based compost with added coarse grit or perlite to replicate the poor, free‑draining soils lavender loves. The RHS recommends mixing up to 25 percent grit or perlite to improve drainage and using pots with “large drainage holes” to prevent waterlogging. When I pot lavender, I create my own mix of equal parts peat‑free compost, horticultural sand and perlite. Hydroponic units do not use soil, but they do provide constant moisture – this is not ideal for lavender. If your smart garden has adjustable watering or the ability to leave pods partly dry between cycles, choose that option. Some systems, like the smaller pods for herbs, allow you to lower the water level; this is essential for lavender.

Watering: Lavender’s Mediterranean heritage means it tolerates drought. The Ideal Home article warns that overwatering causes roots to rot and leads to drooping plants; you should water only when the compost is dry to a depth of about 5 cm. The author suggests watering once every couple of weeks and using a moisture meter or the finger test to check dryness. I find that watering thoroughly and then allowing the pot to dry almost completely before the next watering keeps plants healthy. In hydroponic systems, I choose a lower water level and avoid leaving pods submerged; some smart gardens allow you to suspend the pod slightly above the water so only the roots touch the nutrient solution.

Feeding: Lavender is adapted to low‑nutrient soils and does not need much fertiliser. The RHS says that feeding is generally unnecessary for lavender, but if grown in a confined pot indoors, a monthly feed of diluted liquid fertiliser during the growing season can provide enough nutrients as suggested in the Ideal Home article.

Pruning and repotting: Regular trimming encourages bushiness and flowering. Ideal Home advises trimming one third of the foliage when potting up to help the plant direct energy into root growth. After flowering, cut plants back by about one third and remove spent flower stalks to prevent them becoming woody. Repot annually in spring to refresh the compost and check root health.

Step‑by‑step: growing lavender in a planter

• Select a compact variety: Choose English lavender (you can purchase seeds or from the Herb Seed section).
• Prepare your pot: Use a planter at least 30 cm in diameter with drainage holes. Fill it with a gritty soil mix (loam‑based compost mixed with grit or perlite).
• Position for maximum light: Place the pot on a south‑facing windowsill or under a grow light for at least four to six hours of direct light daily.
• Water sparingly: Water thoroughly once the top 5 cm of compost is dry. Allow excess water to drain away and never let the pot sit in a saucer of water.
• Maintain air circulation: Keep a slight airflow around the plant; crack a window in summer or occasionally set a fan on low to prevent mould and pests.
• Feed lightly: During spring and summer, feed monthly with a half‑strength all‑purpose liquid fertiliser. Stop feeding in autumn to help the plant harden off.
• Prune after flowering: Cut back stems by about one third, removing spent blooms to encourage new growth.
• Overwintering: Because indoor environments are warmer, lavender often continues to grow slowly through winter. Reduce watering frequency, keep the plant in a cool room (around 15 °C) and ensure good light. If the plant becomes leggy, prune lightly in late winter.

Growing lavender in a hydroponic smart garden

Most hydroponic smart gardens are designed for fast‑growing annual herbs like basil and parsley. Lavender is a woody perennial, so it requires some adaptation:

• Use a compatible pod: Some systems offer lavender pods; if not, you can adapt by filling a pod with your own Lavender seeds. Insert just one seed per pod and cover lightly.
• Adjust water levels: Lavender roots dislike constant saturation. Lower the water level or raise the pod slightly so that only the tip of the wick touches the nutrient solution. This keeps the growing medium moist but not waterlogged.
• Maximise light: Position the grow light as close as possible and keep it on for 12–14 hours per day. Lavender needs intense light and warmth to germinate and thrive.
• Use weak nutrients: Start with a half‑strength nutrient solution and reduce feeding frequency. Lavender thrives in low‑fertility conditions; too much fertiliser leads to lush, weak growth.
• Transplant if necessary: As the plant grows, it may outgrow the hydroponic pod. At that point, carefully remove the pod and transplant the lavender into a traditional pot with gritty compost to allow the woody stems to develop.

Troubleshooting common problems

Drooping or yellow leaves: This usually indicates overwatering. Let the compost dry thoroughly before watering again. Ideal Home warns that lavender “prefers to be a little drier than sitting in water”. In hydroponics, check that the roots aren’t permanently submerged.

Leggy growth: Insufficient light causes spindly stems and small leaves. Move your plant to a brighter spot or install supplemental lighting. Provide at least four hours of direct sunlight per day.

Pests: Indoor lavender can attract aphids and spider mites if air is stagnant. Improve circulation and spray the plant with a diluted insecticidal soap if pests appear. Avoid over‑spraying; wet foliage can encourage disease.

Conclusion: is lavender right for your indoor garden?

Lavender can be grown indoors, but it demands more care than many herbs. The plant’s Mediterranean origins mean it wants bright light, a gritty, well‑drained medium and careful watering. The RHS emphasises that lavender needs “lots of sun and fast‑draining soil” and will not tolerate damp, shady conditions. Ideal Home experts recommend at least four hours of direct sunshine, good air circulation and sparing watering. If you can provide these conditions, the reward is a beautiful, fragrant plant that scents your home and provides fresh blooms for teas, desserts or sachets. I love the ritual of checking my lavender every week, feeling the soil for dryness and trimming back stems to encourage new growth.

Whether you choose a terracotta planter or experiment with a modern hydroponic smart garden, lavender offers a connection to the Mediterranean and a calming scent that lifts the spirit. If you’re inspired to expand your indoor herb collection, explore Herb Seed and Vegetable Seeds categories for more variety, and choose stylish Planters to suit your décor. Don’t forget to visit the Indoor Herbs & Plants overview for a deeper dive into cultivating herbs at home and share your own lavender successes in the comments.